06-Feb-2026, The title already gives away on what I am about to do during this trip. Photos speak more than a thousand words, but I suppose I should also dedicate some words to it as well. So here we go.

After spending a lot of time in big Indian cities, I am very close to run away crying from India for good. Friends and family know me as a calm and collected person, but man, the cities here are getting the better hand of me. They are mentally and physically exhausting.

This story takes place at the beginning of February 2026. I am supposed to fly back to Indonesia but instead I board a plane bound to another city within India. No, I didn’t get lost and it wasn’t a mistake. I don’t make mistakes, only well calculated choices and risks (that sometimes backfire). Unfortunately, there is a hiccup in my Indonesian visa application which means I can’t go back yet. I am “forced” to stay a bit longer in the world’s most populated country. I cancel my flight to Bali and book a seat on the first flight to Mangalore (South India). Almost the same, almost!

I don’t know how people did it before the internet but thank God I have Google (this millennial is too stubborn to use chatGPT). I had found a beautiful hill station near Chikmagalur (the coffee city of India). The photos look very promising, and the reviews are great as well; beautiful, lush green hills, majestic waterfalls, lots of wildlife and rain forests, a haven for hikers and trekkers… When the article mentioned “A haven for hikers”, I stopped reading and booked my ticket! No need to say more, I am convinced!

I travel and book always at the very last minute, so I remain flexible in my schedule. It’s my preferred way of traveling because often pre-planning is pointless and gets in my way when I change my mind to go somewhere. I never stick to my own plan that was made a long time ago.

After a short night in a cheap hotel in Mangalore (this hotel wasn’t as bad as the one I stayed in New Delhi), Jeevika (the rental car company) drops a Suzuki Baleno in the morning and off I go… into rural India! My mood is lifted immensely. I have the freedom to go wherever I want, whenever I want, and without depending on a guide, a driver or anybody else. Just me, the car and my freedom, I love it! I have driven a vehicle in pretty much every corner of the world. A motorbike in Chili, a 4×4 in Oman, a campervan in Australia, cars and scooters in several Southeast Asian countries, big ass cars in the United States and of course all through Europe, but India is next level driving. I would never drive in big cities here with such chaotic traffic, but small towns and mountains/hills are no issue at all.

Rural India is so much different compared to any major city. During my road trip I cross many small and dusty towns. Cows roam freely on the streets, woman wear beautiful and colorful Saree’s on their way to the market, and all the men are staring at a white person behind the wheel as I slowly drive by. I can’t help but feel sorry for some of the situations and people I see on the road. People are poor, walk barefoot, and some old ladies are scraping wood of the side of the road. Time is standing still here and there doesn’t seem to be much development going on. Village life is simple but tough. Women cook over small fires next to the road and men trying to make a living by driving rickshaws. Houses are run down, but people seem to be resilient and strong. They smile when I wave. I feel pity, but I am not looking down on them. They deserve respect for these harsh conditions, just as everybody else does. And it reminds me to be grateful for what we have in the West.

I am driving through windy mountains roads, small towns, and forest areas. Except for a few small patches, the tarmac is pretty good which enhances the driving experience. The sun is shining, it’s quiet on the road and the views towards the mountains are amazing. I am feeling good, liberated and I am enjoying this trip very much. At times when I am driving through bigger towns (or relatively small cities), I go along with the traffic, looking straight ahead and don’t give way to anybody. I do exactly like the locals do and don’t give a f**k about other drivers. I am not honking like maniac, but I am not letting myself being pushed around in traffic either. In the West we are taught to drive carefully and defensively, but that won’t get you anywhere here. Taking the offensive is the way to go and nobody bats an eyelid. It’s all part of the experience and instead of stressing, I am enjoying it. I just need to make sure I am not hitting any of the many cows on the road. One more thing I enjoy seeing on the road are the traditional Indian trucks. The cabins are big metal blocks, and they don’t look very comfortable to drive in, but they are, oh so, nicely decorated with ornaments and very expressive in colors. I find them beautiful and you can see the pride the drivers have in their trucks.

Yet again, thanks to Google, I found a beautiful and serene resort at the heart of the western Ghats mountain ranges. Rivermist (name of the resort) is built in the center of a dense jungle and coffee estates, perfect! A three-hour drive takes me there with the last five kilometers on a dirt road, and a small river crossing. The resort looks promising; serene, clean, luxurious and away from civilization. The staff had been communicating with me on WhatsApp and waiting for my arrival. The staff is extremely helpful and friendly. The resort looks amazing and I treated myself to a last-minute upgrade to a luxury pavilion (a glamping tent with a balcony, a private jacuzzi and a drop-dead gorgeous view on the mountains). It is such a romantic place, but the only thing I am hugging tonight is a pillow… LOL!

They say you get what you pay for, and this is true on both sides of the spectrum. This resort is not cheap but it’s full board and includes many great activities. The magic word for Dutch people “free” activities. At night a telescope is set up and for the first time in my life I see the ring of Saturn, and the bands of Jupiter with my own eyes. I only see them as small dots but nonetheless I can see the distinctive characteristics of these planets. Moments later the resort goes completely dark (literally all lights go off) and we get to enjoy the starry night in complete stillness and darkness for fifteen minutes. There is a bonfire and the last activity of the evening is a night walk with naturalist Mr. Ajith. I especially enjoyed this short night walk, we didn’t go far but Mr. Ajith explained a lot about the nightlife in the countryside, especially about all the small critters and birds. It is very interesting. Although my short-term memory often fails me to remember all the interesting facts, one spider that impressed me was the ant-mimicking spider. These spiders evolved to; look like, walk like and behave like an ant… just so the spider can infiltrate the ant colony and hunt them without being detected, what a sneaky bastard!

My days are packed with thrills and adventures, trekking in forests, swimming in rivers and hiking up mountains. I book a solo a 4×4 jeep tour and do a short hike once more at the top of the mountain. Unfortunately, the taller mountains, the ones that I was really looking forward to climb, are closed due to forest fires. Nor did I see any wild boars or wild elephants around the resort, but it was a very memorable stay, nonetheless. I am here for only two nights, and I feel sad to leave. I wish I had more time to stay, but my adventure continues.

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The following two nights I spent at a hotel called Samarya, which is only a ninety-minute drive from Rivermist, so it’s not that far and it’s a nice drive. At first, I was skeptical about Samarya because even though the photos look great, there are very few reviews. Turns out this is a brand-new hotel, and they only opened a few weeks ago. I love my room on the second floor. It is bright, spacious and still has that new smell. The large balcony, overlooking the forest, is the perfect spot to write this story. The young man at the reception is very helpful and he gives me many useful tips on activities I can do in this area without having to book a tour or a guide. This is perfect because I don’t want to be obligated to follow somebody else, I just want to do my own thing in solitude.

After check-in, and as recommended by the hotel, I take a short walk to Hirekolale lake. It’s a pretty and peaceful lake, but I want to go further, and I go off the beaten path and into the forest. I think I might have even trespassed a bit into a coffee plantation because I was looking for a nice and private spot by the lake to read my book. The walk through the forest looking for that private spot is probably one of my favorite; the weather is very pleasant, the birds are singing, there is a small water stream running quietly through the tall trees covered in green moss, wild monkeys jump through the tree tops and for a brief moment I am being followed by a cow. If I didn’t know any better, I would swear I was part of a Disney fairytale. 

Another highlight of this area (The Bhadra wildlife sanctuary) is hiking the Mullayanagiri summit, the tallest mountain in this region. It is a moderate trek and has an elevation gain of almost 2000 meters, this sounds like my perfect next adventure so let’s go!  ….  It’s closed!

Damn, there is an ongoing temple renovation, and nobody is allowed to go up. Oops sorry I shouldn’t swear towards a temple. Okay, another trek then; Z-point. This is an easy, three km hike but they say it’s nice up there. As I look at the photos, I see beautiful and lush green hills, big waterfalls and serene walks. Nice!

However, we are still in the dry season, so the waterfalls are replaced by small streams, and the mountain tops are not green, but brown. It’s hot in the sun, but I am not complaining, I still enjoy the hike and the views. Still better than spending time in smog cities. I encounter many birds, colorful butterflies, weasels and monkeys. The monkeys are generally innocent and won’t come close, but there are a few cheeky ones. While I was going through my backpack, one of the monkeys tried to come close and grab my backpack, probably hoping to find food. During all my past travels I have encountered many monkeys, especially in Indonesia and I know what to do in these situations. I softly pushed him back and I walked away while avoiding eye contact. It is especially important to avoid eye contact because they see this as a sign of aggressiveness and they might attack. As I walked away, I heard him growling behind my back because he was angry, but he didn’t follow me. I was safe to continue my trek, and I spent several hours in these mountains. Upon my return to entrance, I am surprised to see that the gate is closed and locked. But it takes more than a two-meter-high fence to stop me. Jumping over one is easy.

The next day I take another morning walk to Hirekolale lake and this time I am being followed by three young dogs. At first, they feared me and started barking, but as I showed no fear or aggressiveness myself, they relaxed, got curious and followed me all the way to the lake and back. It was actually nice, they surrounded me like they were my protectors and guides. They were friendly and quiet. After this morning it was time to drive back to Mangalore, as my road trip is coming to an end.

Spending these days in nature and mountains, my throat no longer feels itchy and dry. I feel energized and I can breathe normally again. I am ready for my next adventure; a nine-hour train journey and a three-day yoga retreat. This is a story for next time, so stay tuned.

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~ The End ~