28-aug-2022

Yes, you better believe the title of this story. It is true, I finally did it. But it did not come easy!

Let’s go back a little bit to the moment when I was in the shop to buy a new backpack. The lady in the Mountain warehouse shop gave me some advice about hiking up the Zugspitze and also showed me a photo of a line of people waiting on this trail. It was a line of 20 to 30 people waiting their turn before they can climb the Via ferrata in this mountain. Crowds of people like this tend to occur when the weather conditions to climb are perfect (sunny days, with clear blue skies).
If there is one thing I really do not like and would like to avoid as much as I can; it is crowds of people or standing in long ques. Especially in the mountains. I enjoy climbing mountains for the nature and tranquility, and also to escape society every now and then.
I would probably get annoyed when I would have to wait more than an hour before I could finally climb up in a mountain. And from what I learned is that waiting an hour on this hike is not uncommon when it is a beautiful day. After seeing this photo, I changed my alarm setting from 6 AM to 5 AM. The earlier I start the hike, the better. I would at least try to beat the crowd – if there would be any.

The early bird, catches the worm.

The excitement for the trip was palpable throughout the night. I even woke up before the alarm went off. In fact, I woke up several times during the night. It is quite unusual for me to have a restless night, but I still felt good and strong enough to “conquer” the highest mountain of Germany. Breakfast consisted of a quick bowl of cereal and the hotel gave me a breakfast package to-go with a bottle of water and 2 buns of bread. Being a hotel diamond member definitely had its perks and I was able to have a late check-out (around 16.00) without additional charges. This allowed me to have a quick shower before I would return to Rosenheim.

I had a good feeling about today! There was only one minor setback, when I almost reached the starting point of the hike, I suddenly remembered that the bike key is still in my other pants… which is still in the hotel. I turned the car around and picked up the key. At least I was not already half away across the mountain when I remembered about the key, that would have been “disastrous”.

6 AM sharp I started the hike, and it was still mostly dark. The first part of the hike I had already done the previous day so I didn’t need to make any new photos or take a moment to enjoy the beauty of this place. Because I had seen it already not so long ago, I walked through the forest and Höllentalklamm with a relatively high pace. The Höllentalklamm, or gorge, is just as beautiful in the twilight as it is in the daytime. Because it was still slightly dark, the lights in the tunnels were on and gave this place a whole new dimension of beauty. It was not raining but at this time of the morning there was also a lot more water dripping down these cliffs. My guess is that it had rain last night and is now dripping down from the mountains, into the gorge. I was almost soaking wet when coming out of the gorge, but it did not bother me in the slightest. As it was not actually raining it could not ruin my mood. I would easily and quickly dry up during the hike.

In just under three hours I had reached the Höllentalanger hut. This time I did not order an expensive cola, but an expensive black coffee for 4,50 euro. It is my first cup of coffee and my little moment of happiness so it was worth it. Ever since the moment I got out of bed, I had been looking forward to some good coffee. “Good” coffee in this place was an overstatement, but at least it was coffee.

Another six hours to go and this time I did, of course, bring all my climbing gear. It was about to go down! – or should I say up!

Shortly after the Höllentalangerhut, the first Via ferrata climb starts. When standing in the valley and looking around, you see nothing by high rising cliffs and you wonder where in gods name you can possibly go up and over these mountains. But that is of course the beauty of the whole hike. You follow a small path that unfolds as you go, but cannot be seen from afar. I took a moment to myself and admire the magic and the beauty of these mountains before I would start the climb. These rugged mountains are quiet and peaceful with many small waterfalls all around me and one very high waterfall in the distance. Standing here makes me feel so small, but at the same time I feel strong and I am confident in knowing I can do this. Just put one step in front of the next without too much thinking.

Zugspitze here I come… (please be kind to me!)

For an extra boost of energy and confidence to climb the first steel stairs I put on ‘lose yourself – by Eminem’. The first part of the Via ferrata was a good warm up of what would come later and I was very pleased to see almost no people. I guess the weather forecast, which was not that great, kept most people away. The stairs and the climb are a bit scary but at the same time a lot of fun. My legs were still recovering from the long walk yesterday and a bit shaky but no way I would turn around. All the squats I do during Bootcamp training are definitely paying off now. Although challenging, my trained coordination, sure-footedness and strong legs and upper body all make this a doable climb. Especially with some Eminem music on the background, it made it easier to climb.

As the day progressed, the fog came in as well. I suppose there are ups and downs in the fog, it is a pity I do not have beautiful and grand views on the mountains, but at the same time I cannot see the depths of the cliffs. The real fun started when crossing an almost vertical wall and stepping on small steel pins, sticking out of the mountain. One mistake here and a few seconds later you will be in a lot of pain. Easy does it, but of course I am also secured by (steel) ropes.

During a short break, about halfway during the climb, the weather cleared up a bit and the Zugspitze platform was suddenly visible. The platform did not seem to be that far anymore, but the climb should not be underestimated because I still had a long way to go. Moments later, I met two nice German guys; Daniel and Leopold. I estimate them slightly younger than me and they were on the way to the summit of the Zugspitze as well. We had a nice little chat and, as it turned out, we climbed and hiked at somewhat of the same speed. This meant we kept “running into each other”, which is not a surprise because there is only one way up from here. As we got to know each other a bit better, we helped each other out and we were able to make some cool photos of each other. Daniel and Leopold are very friendly and helpful, and it was nice to have some sort of company in the mountains. Daniel had climbed the Zugspitze once before (on a different route) and confirmed that on days with perfect weather, there would traffic jams here in the mountain. But today and for as far I could see it was just the three of us and a small group far ahead of us. It was great! We might not have had the best view, but at least we had the mountain to ourselves and we didn’t have to wait for anybody.

The first part on the Via ferrata took about one hour and after this the trail turned into a ‘normal’ path, on the flank of the mountain, over loose rocks and gravel. The path was not steep or difficult at all but without any signs as to which direction to go it was a bit confusing. It was challenging to navigate but with only one glacier in front of us, I guess there is also only one way to go. The ice was covered in small stones and rocks and at first I was too stubborn to put on my crampons as I could still walk over the rocky parts, this was up until the point I got myself in a bit of trouble; it was suddenly getting more slippier…

Duh! It’s ice Nick, of course it’s slippery.

There were less and less rocks on the ice and suddenly I didn’t have a good grip anymore. Turning back was not easy either. Descending is harder than going up on the ice. You might think you can go back over the same path, and in theory this is correct. In practice, when turning around, the path suddenly looks different (because of the different angle) and the steps I took to get where I am seemed to have vanished. I managed to find a safe and suitable spot to put on my crampons, but I was not at ease at all. Losing grip would be disastrous for the trip. Sure, I would survive, but sliding down a few hundred meters down ice and rocks will not go without cuts and bruises.

I was dreading the moment to put my crampons on, because I knew they were not a proper fit around the shoes. I did not have any other choice, I could not find better crampons on short notice and I was determined to make it to the top. The crampons seemed to have excellent grip on the ice and it was possible to climb up the glacier with a 40 degree slope (very steep for a hike on the glacier). The crampons might have an excellent grip, but they are worthless if I would slip out of them, as my shoes were constantly shifting to the side. The misfit of these steel spikes also put my ankles in an awkward position, and it hurt my ankles. Luckily it was only for a few hundred meters and about ten to fifteen minutes later, I was relieved when I could take them off. I curse these crampons and I will definitely not use these particular ones anymore.

After the glacier, the real climb on the Via ferrata started. First a vertical wall of 30 meters with nothing more than small steel steps to climb upwards. And for the next three hours and 500 elevation meters it was constantly climbing with hands and feet. It was an endless climb over nothing more than rugged rocks and securing yourself on the steel cables is not an unnecessary luxury. It was a very demanding climb, both physically and mentally but it also brings out the best in me. When I am being pushed to my limit, I feel very much alive and highly motivated to keep going. I even experience a kind of tunnel vision.

It was foggy for most of the time so we could not really admire the views but the climb itself gave more than enough satisfaction and it was a reward on its own. We were accompanied by mountain goats and birds. One bird was a real show-off and came to sit very close on the rocks and effortlessly hopped his way up.

My Legs grew weaker by the hour but stopping was not an option. Occasionally I did take a small break, as did my German friends, but I did not want to sit idle too long either. The weather forecast predicted rain and perhaps even a thunderstorm in the afternoon. As the clouds got darker it looked like the sky was about to deliver its promise. I came prepared with a raincoat and there was a relatively light shower for about thirty minutes. I did not really mind getting wet, but extra caution was necessary. The ropes and the rocks became very slippery, almost like walking on ice, but I made it in one piece.

Eight hours, nine kilometers and 2200 elevation meters later I finally reached the top, mission accomplished. I was thrilled, relieved, excited and exhausted at the same time. What an achievement, I climbed the highest mountain of Germany! Another thing crossed off my bucket list. I was so happy, especially because two days ago I thought it would not happen this time. It was not an easy hike, and some mountaineering experience is needed, but it was not a very difficult route either. It was a long day, but I had not reached my limit yet.

And then… the views from the top… the cherry on cake… the view from the summit is magnificent…

or at least so they say.

What we saw was just a white wall of fog. So, I was not able to enjoy the views, but I still finished a big achievement and that is worth so much more to me. It is a cliché, but it is all about the journey, not the destiny.

And if I want to enjoy the view, I can always take the cable cart or the cog-wheel train up to the top again.

After our achievement, and after some quick and mediocre photos at the top, Daniel, Leopold and I went for a drink in the restaurant here at the top. We just had to celebrate our success and we finished the with some nice conversations. We exchanged phone numbers and shared the photos with each other. I think it would be a good idea to stay in touch with them, just in case I would be in the area again and they might be up to do another hike. It is always good to have a hiking buddy, somebody to share these experiences with.

Before taking the cable cart down, I had a quick look at the small museum. I always find it very fascinating to see old photos of the people who first set foot on this summit with very primitive equipment. It is also fascinating to see how they build a cog-wheel track (for the train) all the way to the top. I believe these photos are more than a hundred years old, and it is just so impressive to build such things without the modern technology we have today.

Lastly my eye catches a nice souvenir in the giftshop that I just had to buy. People who know me well, also know that I am a mug collector for every new country I visit and even though I already have a mug from Germany, this one was special. Since I “conquered” the Zugspitze by foot, it seemed like an appropriate souvenir.

Eight hours to the top and ten minutes to get back down on solid ground. Daniel and Leopold were relying on public transport (which can be a hassle) to get back to their car but it was my pleasure to help them going back. I offered Daniel a seat at the back of my bike and go back to the car together. After I would drop Daniel off, he could go back to pick up Leopold.

This bike ride was a bit of an adventure on its own. The road was wet, windy, and going down quite steep. With somebody on the back it was not easy to keep the bike stable, and cars were overtaking us as well. But also for this adventure we came out of it in one piece. We switched seats and Daniel did the work on the last part.

It had been such an amazing day and truly a big achievement to climb this mountain. I am so glad I did not check the weather forecast today. I had doubts about going but I think if I had checked the forecast, I might have cancelled my plans altogether. Today motivates me only more to climb higher and more challenging mountains. Which one is next?

~ The End ~